A Liberating Weekend in Guernsey
Ellie Austen
Ellie's island weekend turns in to a unique mix of French and British cultures with a salute to the end of World War Two
A frosty reception
Once upon a time, British seaside Bed & Breakfasts (B&Bs) had an appalling reputation, unwelcoming, sparse rooms and food and on-existent bedroom entertainment and drinks. Thankfully, nowadays, such B&Bs are almost unheard, unfortunately I found one.
Rather bizarrely, even though I did not need my passport to get there, I flew overseas. On arrival I was transported 60 years, as a Liberation Day party was in full swing as the residents of Guernsey celebrated the end of World War II (WWII). Everywhere, streets and shops were decorated with flags, WWII memorabilia and bunting; jolly people everywhere as one was they waited for the firework finale at 10pm.
I had no time to join in, I had to find my B&B. So I headed up very steep hills, and got lost in the dark back streets in search of my lodgings. I arrived 30 minutes late, to a frosty reception from the landlady.
Oh dear! My landlady’s smile was as tight as her perm. As I started to apologise for my lateness, her husband thrust some keys at me, along with a withering snarl that said I was not worthy of them. Despite the awkward reception, they gave me a mini tour, before they gave me a free cup of tea in their youth hostel-like lounge. Then I retired to my chilly bedroom.
Breakfast was prompt at 8.45am and served until 9.30am. Like a scene from Patrick Hamilton’s Slaves of Solitude*, I ate breakfast with several other lone females. We ate in silence. Despite my perverse pleasure watching the landlady in action, I decided I needed to find new, warmer accommodation, then check out the rest of Guernsey.
Historic to modern-day Guernsey
Happy with my new accommodation, I set out to explore Guernsey.
Guernsey used to be a part of France, but has been loyal to Britain since William conquered England in 1066. Both French and British cultures reside side by side that today provides Guernsey with it's unique culture.
Guernsey is part of the Bailiwick of Guernsey that consists of Alderney, Sark, Helm and other smaller islands (but not Jersey, the other main Channel Island). It is a British Crown Dependency, not part of the EU, and the Queen, though head of state, is officially the Duke of Normandy.
Although linked to the UK, Guernsey has its own government, and at only 25 square miles, most islanders know their politicians in person and take a lively interest in how their home is governed.
The islands have been occupied since Neolithic times, with each new generation finding a way to survive: fishing, farming, stone work, tourism and now finance; but, the toughest time was during WWII when the islands were occupied by the Germans. There was at least one German to every islander.
During this period, the islanders remained that Britain would rescue them, but the British didn't show up until the end of the war. Incidentally, during the Liberation day ceremonies, I was mistaken for one of the many Germans who visit the island at this time.
Evidence of the Germans presence can be found all over the island; for instance at the German Underground Military Hospital and the German Occupation Museum.
Older residents still remember the pain of occupation and lack of basic necessities, when many children were evacuated to the main land. The Channel islands were then cut off from the UK, 75 miles away. Sixty years later, only bad weather (and the long-standing airport or firemen’s strikes) can cut off Guernsey from the UK mainland.
Good time on Guernsey
I found it was worth talking with locals in order to gain some understanding of Guernsey's distinctive nature. So, avoid my B&B horror and find yourself a good place to stay, then roam and ramble around. It’s gentle, it’s beautiful, and it has a fascinating history – welcome to Guernsey.
Guernsey Facts:
- Guernsey has its own currency
- Although all the shops are British and the local language is English street names and homes are in French
- Post boxes with British royal insignia are blue
- The capital is St Peter’s Port
- The nicest part are the winding streets of the old town where elegant tall houses, including one owned by Victor Hugo, cling to the hillside.
- Buses make it easy to explore the island and to find the lovely rocky bays with sandy beaches. Once the home to pirates, these are now ideal for family days out.
- Guernsey is also a great place for walking; flower-festooned meadows overlook blue green seas and sweet bird song fills the air. With great Guernsey ice cream at the end of the route, what better way to build up an appetite?
Getting to Guernsey:
- Flights fly here from all over the UK and it is also accessible by boat from Poole and Weymouth.
- Trips can be expensive but you can add-on a visit to the other islands and of course, France.
Picture copyright: http://www.guernsey.com
* The Slaves of Solitude (Paperback) by Patrick Hamilton
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